FAQ – frequently asked questions

The traditional change through the sump plug is the better method: more old oil is removed from the engine than by sucking it out through the dipstick tube. That is why we do oil changes the traditional way as standard.

If for some reason the oil cannot be changed the traditional way on a car, it can be sucked out through the dipstick tube. This is always agreed separately before the work.

Even if the car has the manufacturer’s extended LongLife service interval, we do not usually recommend driving on the same oil for more than 15,000–20,000 km or 12 months. For high-mileage cars and short trips it can make sense to shorten the interval even further.

Yes. On some new Volkswagen Group cars the reset may occasionally require SFD unlocking, which costs 30 € when needed. Most cars do not need it.

The oil’s viscosity and manufacturer approval must suit your car, and the oil filter must match the engine. The labour price is the same 42.50 €.

During the work we tell you about any clearly visible oil leaks or other visible issues.

The manufacturer’s warranty stays valid when scheduled servicing is done at an independent workshop following the manufacturer’s service schedule and service instructions. We record the work done in the service records and, for many makes, in the manufacturer’s digital service history.

Please note: we are not an authorised dealer service. Separate protection products and agreements from the manufacturer or car dealer, such as extended warranties, additional cover, service agreements or Volkswagen’s mobility guarantee, may require the car to be serviced at an authorised dealer. In that case the terms of such products do not apply to servicing done by us.

If your car has such a protection product or agreement, check its terms before the service.

The service interval can be based on mileage, the time since the last service, a message from the car’s service system, operating conditions or the service history.

If you are not sure, send us the registration number and mileage. We will find out which service is due and give you a quote.

Yes, you can. Parts and fluids brought by the customer are not covered by our parts warranty. We give our normal warranty on the work we do.

Depending on the scope, from one to a few hours. The car is usually ready the same day.

Yes, we do scheduled servicing of hybrids and electric cars. However, we do not do diagnostics, servicing or repairs of the high-voltage battery or other high-voltage systems.

SFD (Schutz der Fahrzeugdiagnose) is a protected diagnostic connection used in new Volkswagen Group cars. Without authorisation, some service and diagnostic functions, such as resetting the service interval and adaptations, may be blocked. SFD unlocking costs 30 €.

During the service we may find, for example, worn brake pads or discs, play in the suspension, torn rubber boots, oil or coolant leaks and worn belts.

We tell you about the faults we find and, if needed, give you a price for the repair. No extra repairs are done without your approval.

We give a warranty of 12 months or 15,000 km, whichever comes first, on the servicing and repair work we do. Read the warranty terms.

Yes. The price includes the brake fluid and the standard replacement work: passenger car 60 €, hybrid and electric car and small van 80 €.

We use brake fluids from TRW and Brembo. We keep both DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 in stock – in about 95% of cars we use DOT 5.1, which is also suitable for cars for which the manufacturer specifies DOT 4.

Yes, we do a normal preventive brake fluid change when the braking system is intact and no air has got into it.

Complete diagnostic bleeding of a system that has air in it is done with Tesla’s own Tesla Toolbox system, which is not currently available to us. That is why we do not do diagnostic bleeding in situations such as:

• after replacing the ABS / ESP unit
• after the braking system has been opened or has leaked
• after replacing brake pipes or hoses, if air has got deeper into the system
• after other repairs that require the manufacturer’s diagnostic bleeding procedure

As a separate job +10 €. If the reset is done together with scheduled servicing or an engine oil change, it is not charged separately.

If we notice a clearly increased risk of breakage, we usually contact you and agree whether to open the screw knowing the risk or to leave it closed.

There is no single interval. It depends on the manufacturer, the gearbox type, the mileage and the operating conditions. We look at the service schedule and history and give you our recommendation.

No. We do a traditional oil change: the oil is drained from the bottom, the filter and seal are replaced and new oil is added. Some of the old oil then remains in the torque converter and passages, 30–50% on average. In scheduled servicing this is normal: this is exactly the method manufacturers specify, and with regular changes the old oil is gradually replaced. The most important part of the change is usually replacing the filter itself: the filter collects metal particles and other wear debris from the oil.

Machine flushing (a change with equipment that circulates new oil through the gearbox) gives something different: the oil is replaced almost 100%, and practically no old oil remains. It makes sense if this is exactly what matters to you – for example in a car you have just bought whose service history is unknown, or simply for peace of mind. In that case it is worth finding a workshop that does flushing. For the service schedule and gearbox life there is no additional benefit, but 3–4 times as much oil is used and the price is clearly higher – for normal servicing a traditional change is enough.

Not necessarily. An oil change is a maintenance job, not a repair. If the gearbox is already showing symptoms, it is worth starting with diagnostics.

The exception is when the jerking is caused by too low an oil level – for example because of a leak. In that case repairing the leak and filling the oil to the correct level can remove the symptom.

2 hours on average. The exact time depends on the car and the gearbox design.

We recommend changing the Haldex oil about every 30,000–50,000 km or every 2–3 years. It is worth servicing more often if you do a lot of short trips in freezing weather, tow a trailer or drive hard.

The manufacturer’s service schedule may give a longer interval, but wear material builds up in the strainer anyway.

Yes, and it is the most convenient way: the coupling oil is worth changing as part of regular servicing. If you know your car has a Haldex coupling and you want the oil changed, tell us when booking that a Haldex oil change should be added to the service.

If we have the car’s full service history and the change is due according to the service schedule, we will suggest it ourselves.

Usually about 2 hours, sometimes less. We reserve the whole day for the job, so it is best to bring the car in the morning.

No. The Haldex uses its own special oil designed for the friction of a multi-plate clutch. We use oil that meets the specification required by the system.

Not necessarily. A service is a preventive measure and does not in itself guarantee that an existing fault will go away. If the car already has fault codes or the four-wheel drive does not work, we start with diagnostics.

Yes. The Haldex coupling is not only used by VW, Audi, Škoda, SEAT and CUPRA – Volvo and Land Rover, for example, use the same coupling, and the oil is changed on them in the same way. On other makes the four-wheel drive is built differently, but the transfer case or coupling oil still needs changing.

On Mercedes-Benz 4MATIC cars the transfer case oil is changed according to the service schedule. On BMW xDrive cars the car itself monitors the condition of the transfer case oil: when the oil approaches the end of its life, a message about the need for an oil change appears in the instrument cluster. After the change we confirm it in the control unit with a diagnostic tool – otherwise the message will not go away. Tell us the make and model when booking, and we will check the content and price of the work.

Yes. We change the front and rear differential oil on all makes. The interval depends on the car and the manufacturer’s service schedule.

Ask about this separately when booking – we will check the oil quantity, the price of the work and the interval for your model.

A basic inspection and fault code reading cost 20 €. More extensive diagnostics are charged by the hour at 85 €/h. We estimate the time needed when you book, based on the symptom and the model – if it turns out during the work that more time is needed, we tell you and agree on the next steps with you.

It depends on the fault. Thorough diagnostics often take several hours; for intermittent faults and when several possible causes have to be ruled out, it takes longer. We give you a time estimate when you book and always agree on the next steps with you.

We stop the work and contact you: we tell you what we found, how much continuing will cost and how long it will take. We do not continue without your approval.

If the price or schedule does not suit you, we suggest alternatives – a different repair method, moving the work to another day or reassembling the car in its current state so that you can decide in your own time.

Sometimes a small repair can be done straight away if the parts are available and the schedule allows. Otherwise we prepare a quote and agree on a separate time for the repair.

We work as agreed with you when you book. If you want to approve each step separately, we always stop and ask – even for small extra jobs. If, on the other hand, we agree that small extra jobs can be done without asking, we do them straight away.

Many customers give permission in advance: “fix whatever is needed, get the car sorted”. This speeds up the work and usually also works out cheaper, because the work goes ahead without interruptions. Even then we keep you informed: if the total cost of the repair starts to grow noticeably or we find new major faults, we tell you and agree on the next steps – so that the final bill does not come as a surprise.

20 €. The price includes connecting the tool, reading the fault codes and a basic interpretation.

Usually not. We do, however, recommend calling in advance on 050 599 0357 so that your waiting time is short.

Yes, if the car’s system and the diagnostic tool allow it. Clearing does not fix the fault, though – if the cause is still there, the warning usually comes back.

Then we continue with diagnostics at 85 €/h. We always agree on the next steps with you before the work.

When the battery is bought from us, a normal replacement is 20 €. Fitting your own battery is 42.50 €. Coding costs an extra 20 €, and on VW Group cars built from around 2020 SFD unlocking is 30 €. If the battery is in an awkward place, the work is charged by the hour at 85 €/h.

No. Whether registration is needed depends on the car’s charging and energy management system. We tell you whether your car needs it.

SFD is the Volkswagen Group’s diagnostic protection, used on Volkswagen, Audi, Škoda, SEAT and CUPRA cars built from around 2020. The protection has to be unlocked before battery coding, and unlocking costs 30 €. Older cars do not need SFD unlocking.

Not without a technical reason. On Start-Stop cars the AGM or EFB battery has been chosen according to the requirements of the system.

We replace the 12 V batteries of hybrids and electric cars. We do not repair or replace high-voltage traction batteries.

Not reliably. From photos we can see where the damage is and tell you whether we can help, but rust that looks small can be much more extensive on the inside. That is why the car is always inspected before a price estimate. If more is found during the repair, we agree on the next steps with you before the work.

The repaired area is primed, the seams are sealed and underbody protection is applied on top. This protects the repair against road salt and moisture.

Yes. We also repair rusted or damaged mountings and individual metal parts by welding if they can be repaired reliably. More about exhaust work on the Exhaust repair page.

If the damage affects a structure that cannot be repaired properly with a local repair, we tell you before continuing the work, and you decide how to proceed.

Caster angle adjustment is not included in the 79 € price of a normal four-wheel alignment. On most cars the caster angle cannot be adjusted, or a separate adjustment is not normally needed.

If the customer wants the caster angle adjusted and the car’s design allows it, the price estimate is approx. 42.50 €. The final price depends on the scope of the work.

The 79 € price applies to a normal four-wheel alignment to the car manufacturer’s standard values. Priced separately are, for example, individual coilover settings, heavily lowered cars, special settings for racing and hobby cars and wheel angles requested by the customer that differ from the manufacturer’s standard values. In these cases the price of the work is estimated separately.

The result of a four-wheel alignment can be affected by, for example, play in ball joints, worn tie rod ends, play in the inner tie rods, damaged or loose bushings, significant play in wheel bearings, broken springs and damaged or bent suspension parts.

If faults like these are found, it is worth repairing them before the final alignment.

In Finnish conditions, suspension adjustment bolts and other fasteners can rust and seize badly. The wheel angles can usually be measured, but if an adjustment bolt or mechanism does not move or its range of travel is not enough, it may not be possible to adjust to the desired value.

In that case it may be necessary to free or remove the adjustment joint, replace an adjustment bolt, cut a rusted bolt or replace a bushing or control arm. Extra work and the necessary parts are charged separately.

You can find out the condition of the adjustment bolts in advance with an extended chassis inspection (30 €): we open the adjustment bolts and nuts and check that they move. Liability for breaking parts ↑

On Volkswagen, Škoda, SEAT and Audi and some Fords (for example the Focus), the rear axle adjustment bolts often rust into the inner sleeve of the control arm bushing. The bolt turns with the bushing, and the rear wheel alignment cannot then be adjusted properly.

The solution is to cut the bolts and replace the control arms completely – new control arms are usually sold as a set with adjustment bolts. The work takes about 2 hours, sometimes more depending on the car’s design and access. The average labour price is 170–212.50 €, a pair of control arms approx. 120–130 €. A four-wheel alignment is done after the replacement.

Depending on the car’s design, adjustable values can include front toe, rear toe, front camber and rear camber.

Not every measurable angle can be adjusted with the original adjustment parts on every car. If a value is outside the range allowed by the manufacturer but the car has no adjustment for that angle, the cause may be, for example, suspension wear, a damaged or bent part or the car’s design. In that case a further inspection or repair may be needed.

A car pulling to one side is not always caused by incorrect wheel angles. The cause may be a suspension or steering fault, the condition of a tyre or damage to it, a braking system fault, a bent suspension or body part, the camber of the road or another technical fault.

If the cause of the car pulling to one side is not known, we recommend first finding the cause of the problem and then doing the necessary repair or adjustment.

If the steering wheel is off-centre when driving on a straight road, one possible cause is incorrect toe adjustment. During a four-wheel alignment the steering wheel is locked in the centre position and the wheel angles are adjusted within the limits allowed by the car’s design.

On some cars the steering system and suspension structures can have relatively large normal play by design. Because of this, a perfectly straight steering wheel is not always achieved with the first adjustment, and a small further correction may sometimes be needed. If you notice after the work that the steering wheel is clearly off-centre when driving on a straight road, please contact us.

After the four-wheel alignment, the customer receives a measurement report showing the wheel angle values before and after the adjustment. The report shows which values were outside the manufacturer’s range before the adjustment and to which values they were adjusted.

The four-wheel alignment measurement report of a lowered car can be used in the modification inspection if needed. That is why it is worth keeping the measurement report after adjusting a lowered car.

A four-wheel alignment determines and adjusts the car’s wheel angles at the time the work is done. We do not give a long-term guarantee on even tyre wear based on the alignment alone, because many other factors affect wear: the design and condition of the tyres, tyre pressures, the condition of the suspension and shock absorbers, the car’s load, driving style and operating conditions, and hitting potholes or kerbs.

If there is reason to suspect after the alignment that the wheel angles are not right, we can measure them again and find out what is going on.

A four-wheel alignment is essential after replacing an outer tie rod end, an inner tie rod or the steering rack. After other suspension repairs, the need for an alignment depends on the car’s design and which parts were removed or replaced during the work.

After fitting lowering springs, coilovers or another ride height change, the wheel angles should be checked, because changing the ride height affects the suspension geometry.

We tell you which part is worn or damaged, how urgent the repair is and what we recommend replacing. You get an estimate of the price of parts and labour, and we can prepare a quote for the repair and agree on a time.

The inspection takes about 30 minutes, so you can wait on site.

A successful four-wheel alignment requires the chassis and steering to be in good technical condition. If there is play, broken parts or seized adjusters in the chassis, the wheel angles may not be adjustable reliably.

If you are unsure about the condition of the chassis, have a chassis inspection first, repair any faults and only then do the four-wheel alignment.

The chassis inspection is a primary mechanical inspection. If finding the fault requires longer diagnostics, dismantling parts, a test drive or measurements, the next steps are always agreed separately – we do not continue without an agreement.

A more thorough investigation is done, if needed, as separate diagnostics.

No. We do not recommend replacing parts on a guess alone – we first find the real cause of the fault.

We recommend replacing the springs on the same axle at the same time. An old spring has settled, so a new and an old one can differ in height and stiffness. If one spring has already broken, the other one of the same age is often in the same condition.

Replacing a single spring is possible – the decision is made based on the condition of the other side.

Yes. Finnish conditions put more strain on suspension parts than, for example, in Central Europe: cold winters, warm summers, large temperature swings and road salt in winter. Quality parts last clearly longer here than budget parts, because quality manufacturers also test their parts in conditions like these – budget manufacturers do not.

Depending on the suspension design and the work, an alignment may be needed – especially after a front axle repair or fitting lowering springs, if the steering wheel is not straight or the tyres have worn unevenly.

See four-wheel alignment (79 €).

Depending on the fault, for example the air springs and bellows, the compressor, air lines and connections, air leaks, the ride height control and the suspension system fault codes. Air suspension differs in design from steel spring suspension, so the price is estimated separately.

The properties of a shock absorber deteriorate gradually with use. If only one is replaced, the new and the old one can work quite differently.

A difference in damping affects how the car behaves over bumps, its stability when braking and how the suspension works in corners. That is why we always recommend replacing shock absorbers on the same axle in pairs.

Yes. Quality shock absorbers last longer and are more reliable. The cheapest ones often last the warranty period, but not much longer.

Finnish conditions put more strain on suspension parts than, for example, in Central Europe: cold winters, warm summers, large temperature swings and road salt in winter. Quality parts last clearly longer here than budget parts, because quality manufacturers also test their parts in conditions like these – budget manufacturers do not.

Yes – when the spring and shock absorber are in the same strut, as is usually the case at the front. Because the strut is dismantled anyway, the extra work for replacing the spring is usually small. At the rear, springs and shock absorbers are often separate, in which case replacing the springs is a different job and priced separately. It makes sense especially if the springs are old, rusted or high-mileage.

See spring replacement.

They are always checked when the strut is dismantled and replaced if needed based on their condition. The rubber parts wear and compress, and the bearings can start to stick because of corrosion or dirt. Once the strut has been dismantled, replacing them does not usually add significant extra work.

On some cars the replacement is practically essential: for example, on Volkswagen, Škoda and SEAT models from around 2010 the top mount bolts often break during dismantling and reconditioning the mount does not make sense – in that case the mount is replaced anyway.

After replacing the front shock absorbers an alignment may be needed, especially if parts that affect the wheel angles are removed during the work. The need depends on the suspension design of the car.

After replacing separate rear shock absorbers, the wheel angles do not usually need adjusting.

The actual lowering depends on the kit and the car’s original suspension. A figure given by the manufacturer, such as 30–40 mm, usually means the difference to the standard suspension. If the car already has a factory sports suspension, the difference to the current height may be smaller.

Changing the ride height affects the suspension geometry and wheel angles. The alignment is done once the suspension is fitted and the final ride height is set – and the report is needed for the modification inspection.

If the car has ride height sensors, automatic headlight levelling or other height-related systems, their function or adjustment may require a separate check.

If they are clearly worn, it is often worth it – much of the dismantling is done anyway. We tell you about their condition during the work.

From 85 €. On most cars, replacing one control arm takes about an hour on average. More demanding designs are charged by the hour – we give you an estimate before the work. Parts and four-wheel alignment are charged separately.

We recommend it after replacing control arms and bushings, because replacing the parts can change the wheel position. The alignment costs 79 €.

Not always – usually the worn or damaged part is replaced. On some cars, however, replacing in pairs is advisable. For example, the front tension struts (front thrust rods) on Mercedes-Benz, BMW and Tesla are worth replacing on both sides so that the wheel position and handling stay the same. We give our recommendation during the inspection.

Road salt in winter and large temperature differences – cold winters and hot summers – wear the rubber parts of bushings and rust control arms and mounting bolts. That is why suspension parts often wear faster here than in a milder climate.

We recommend quality parts, for example FAG, Febi or Lemförder. The cheapest parts often wear quickly in Finnish conditions, so a quality part usually works out cheaper in the long run.

A rusted bolt is cut and a new one fitted. If a part needs to be replaced at the same time, we agree on it before continuing.

Yes. On Volkswagen, Škoda, SEAT, Audi and some Fords, the rear axle adjustment bolts often turn together with the bushing, so the alignment cannot be adjusted. We cut the bolts and fit control arms with new adjustment bolts: labour 170–212.50 € on average, followed by a four-wheel alignment. More on the four-wheel alignment page.

Replacing a pair of bushings costs 200–316 € on average depending on the design: rear axle beam bushings 200–300 €, front trailing arm bushings 255–316 €, BMW thrust arm bushings 212.50 €. Parts and four-wheel alignment extra. You get the exact price by registration number.

We recommend it, but it is not usually essential when replacing rear axle beam bushings or BMW thrust arm bushings. After trailing arm bushings an alignment is worth doing. After a Tesla knuckle replacement the alignment is always mandatory, and the steering angle sensor is calibrated if needed (20 €).

In most cases, yes. The control arm or beam is lowered and the bushing is pressed in directly on the car. On some cars the control arm has to be removed completely – we tell you in advance.

Yes. Bushings on the same axle have worn at the same rate, and replacing only one often brings the car back soon.

Yes. In addition to rear beam and trailing arm bushings, we replace, for example, subframe bushings, anti-roll bar bushings, differential mounts and other rubber-and-metal suspension parts.

If the bushing is available separately, it can usually be replaced – we tell you the exact price by registration number.

Yes, the labour price is the same. We recommend parts from Lemförder, Febi or FAG – cheap bushings do not last long in Finnish conditions.

A rusted bolt is cut off and a new one is fitted. This adds labour time, and we always agree it with you before continuing.

Rear wheel bearing replacement from 85 € and front wheel from 127.50 €. The price depends on the car’s design and the amount of dismantling. Parts are charged separately.

Usually not. We replace the faulty bearing. If there are no signs of a fault on the other side, it does not need replacing preventively.

Yes. On many cars the ABS sensor reads the magnetic ring of the bearing, so a fault in the bearing or the ring can turn on the ABS or ESP light.

Road salt in winter, moisture and large temperature differences put a strain on bearings and their seals. That is why we recommend quality parts, for example FAG.

Not always, but sometimes. If the sensor has to be removed for the bearing replacement and it has rusted in, it cannot always be removed intact. The sensor may also already be damaged if the ABS ring on the bearing or driveshaft has rusted and swollen. In that case the sensor is replaced at the same time – we tell you before continuing.

Only if parts affecting the wheel angles are removed during the work. We tell you in advance if it is needed.

Outer tie rod end replacement from 42.50 € / side and inner tie rod replacement from 85 € / side. Parts and four-wheel alignment (79 €) are charged separately.

Yes. The tie rod directly affects the toe angle, so the wheel angles must be adjusted after every replacement.

Usually not. If there is no play in the part on the other side, it does not need replacing preventively.

The inspection entry tells you there is play in the steering, but the play may also be in the steering rack. We check the source first so that you do not pay for the wrong part.

Quality parts, for example FAG, Febi or Lemförder. The cheapest parts often wear quickly in Finnish conditions – road salt and large temperature differences.

Labour costs 170–340 € on simpler designs (about 2–4 hours) and approx. 510 € on more demanding ones (about 6 hours). The steering rack, fluids and four-wheel alignment are charged separately.

Depending on the car, we can offer a new steering rack, a quality remanufactured rack, an original part or a suitable aftermarket part. Remanufactured steering racks are widely available in Finland and can reduce the total cost significantly compared with a new original part. We give you the options in the quote.

Not necessarily. On hydraulic systems the fluid may also come from the power steering pipes, connections, seals, the pump or the fluid reservoir. We find the source of the leak before an expensive steering rack replacement.

Yes. The steering geometry changes during the replacement, so an alignment is mandatory.

Not necessarily. The play may also be in the tie rod or another steering part. We check the source before the replacement.

Without lifting the car we can usually see the condition of the discs, heavy rust, visible damage and signs of overheating, as well as the thickness of the pads if they are visible through the rim. The inspection does not replace diagnostics – not every part can be seen from the outside. Come without an appointment during opening hours.

The most common cause is a sticking brake caliper. In Finland, road salt, moisture and temperature swings damage the piston’s rubber boot, moisture gets into the piston and the piston rusts. The cause may also be in the slide pins, seized pads or the handbrake – that is why we check before replacing parts.

The cause may be a worn-out pad and wear sensor, a rusted disc edge, dirt or a seized pad. A metallic grinding noise often means the pad is worn out and the disc is being damaged – in that case, have the brakes checked straight away.

Usually the discs have run-out or have worn unevenly, for example after overheating. The discs and pads are then replaced per axle.

The cause may be a sticking caliper, a faulty brake hose, air in the braking system, a fault in the handbrake mechanism or heavy corrosion. The fault is found before parts are replaced.

There may be air in the braking system, the brake fluid may be old or something may be leaking – for example a rusted brake pipe or a caliper. A soft pedal is a safety risk, so bring the car in for inspection straight away.

Yes. On drum brakes and on disc brakes with a separate handbrake drum inside, the shoes, springs and adjuster cannot be seen from the outside, so the drum or disc is removed.

Usually not. The body of an old caliper may have corrosion, and the rebuild work often costs as much as a ready exchange caliper. A rebuild can make sense for a rare caliper or when an exchange part is not available.

Brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, and it is changed according to the car manufacturer’s instructions, usually every couple of years. The change is a service job of its own.

We recommend quality parts such as TRW, Textar and ATE. The cheapest parts do not last long in Finnish conditions. We calculate the price of parts based on the registration number.

Send us the inspection report or its fault entry and the car’s registration number. The measured values often show where the fault is, and we can order the parts needed in advance.

Average prices for a passenger car: front brake pads 85 € (1 h), rear brake pads 102 € (1.2 h), front discs and pads 102 € (1.2 h), rear discs and pads 127.50 € (1.5 h), and discs and pads front and rear 212.50 € (2.5 h). On premium cars and special brakes the price may be different or calculated separately. Parts are charged separately.

Not always. If the discs are in good condition and thick enough, only the pads can be replaced. If the discs are worn or damaged, we recommend replacing discs and pads together on the whole axle.

Usually not. Brake pads are sold as an axle set, and the brakes on the same axle must work evenly – otherwise the car may pull to one side when braking. That is why we always replace them on both sides.

The exception is an urgent repair. If, for example, a sticking brake caliper has quickly worn out the pads and disc on one side, only the disc and pads on that side can be replaced.

Yes. We assess the external condition of the discs and pads free of charge without lifting the car during opening hours. If lifting or dismantling the car is needed to find out, the inspection is charged separately.

The cause is found before the replacement – for example a sticking caliper, slide pins, seized pads, the handbrake mechanism or a brake hose. Otherwise the new parts can be damaged quickly.

Rarely, but it is possible. When new, thicker pads are fitted, the caliper piston is pushed further back, and a hidden fault in an old caliper can then start to show. If one wheel gets hot, there is a burning smell from the brakes or the car does not roll freely, bring it in for inspection as soon as possible.

Replacing the rear pads then requires the service mode on a diagnostic tool. This is usually included in the work, but on some cars there may be an extra charge. VW Group cars built from around 2020 (Volkswagen, Audi, Škoda, SEAT, CUPRA) also need SFD unlocking, +30 €.

For the first few drives, avoid long hard braking, repeated heavy braking from high speed and overheating the brakes.

We use and recommend quality brands – primarily TRW, Textar and ATE. We give you the options and prices in the quote.

Cheap brake pads and discs are cheaper only at first glance:

• they wear faster;
• they squeal more often because of poor-quality material or design;
• their shape and dimensions can be inaccurate, so they have to be adjusted during fitting – this takes extra time and means extra costs for the customer.

That is why quality parts usually work out cheaper in the long run.

Replacing one brake caliper on a passenger car costs 85 € on average (1 h). If the caliper is replaced together with brake pads or discs, the extra price is 42.50 € per caliper on average. On premium cars and special brakes the price may be different. Parts are charged separately.

Usually not. Unlike brake pads and discs, a caliper does not automatically need replacing on both sides. If the caliper on the other side works normally, only the faulty one is replaced. On an older or high-mileage car, however, we also check the caliper on the other side.

The most common cause is corrosion. In Finland, road salt, moisture and large temperature swings age the caliper’s rubber boots and seals. When a boot fails, moisture and dirt get into the piston, cylinder and slide pins, and the piston no longer returns normally.

Often yes, if the caliper itself and the piston are in good condition. The slide pins are removed, cleaned and greased and the rubber boots are checked – the pins or boots are replaced if needed. The price is based on the labour time.

We do not usually recommend an extensive rebuild with a repair kit. The body and cylinder of an old caliper may have corrosion that the kit does not remove, and the labour time easily brings the price up to the level of a new caliper. A rebuild can make sense for a rare caliper or when a new part is not available – these are assessed separately.

A caliper that has been sticking for a long time can damage the disc, pads, rubber boots and brake fluid. That is why we always also assess the condition of the disc and pads. If they have clearly overheated, we recommend replacing them at the same time.

Many cars do. In that case the parking brake is put into service mode with a diagnostic tool and returned to normal mode after the work, with a basic setting if needed. This is usually included in the price, but depending on the car there may be an extra charge.

On VW Group cars built from around 2020 (Volkswagen, Audi, Škoda, SEAT, CUPRA) the diagnostics are protected with SFD locking. It has to be unlocked, for example, to put the rear electric parking brake into service mode. SFD unlocking +30 €.

After a caliper replacement the braking system is bled, and the brake fluid needed is included in the price. If the brake fluid is old, we recommend changing all of it at the same time.

Yes. We are responsible for the quality of the fitting work, but we cannot give a warranty on the quality or durability of a part you bring yourself. If your own caliper turns out to be faulty, the new removal and fitting work is charged separately.

The warranty covers the work we do and the parts we supply. If a fault appears in a caliper or connection we fitted, we repair it without a labour charge. Later faults in other old brake parts, such as the caliper on the other side or an old brake hose, are separate repairs.

Replacing both rear brake pipes on a passenger car costs approx. 400 € on average. Replacing the front pipes is usually a little cheaper because the route is shorter. The price includes labour, copper pipes, fittings and bleeding the braking system. We tell you the exact price after an inspection – we have fixed prices for common cases.

The price depends on the car, how long the pipe route is and whether it is a front or rear pipe. On some cars the pipe runs all the way to the ABS unit, which means more work.

No. New joints must not be added to a brake pipe. If an extended pipe is found at the inspection, the car can be banned from driving. That is why we always replace the pipe in one piece from joint to joint.

In Finland, road salt, moisture and large temperature swings corrode the steel brake pipes under the car. It is usually the rear brake pipes that rust, as they run a long way along the underside of the car.

Copper pipe does not rust like steel pipe, and it can be bent to fit the car on the spot. We keep repair pipe in stock, so no parts need to be ordered.

Often the inspection fails only one rear pipe, even though the other is already in poor condition too. In that case we recommend replacing both at once: it is clearly cheaper than replacing the pipes on two separate occasions. That is why we usually offer to replace both rear pipes, and the stated price of approx. 400 € covers both.

Yes. After the brake pipes are replaced, the whole braking system is bled. Bleeding and brake fluid are included in the price.

Better not. When brake fluid is leaking, braking power can drop suddenly and the pedal can sink to the floor. If you suspect a leak, bring the car in for inspection or arrange a tow.

If the hoses have become brittle or their fittings are rusted, it is worth replacing them at the same time, as the pipes are being removed anyway. Hoses are charged separately.

Send us the inspection report or its fault entry and the car’s registration number. We will give you a price estimate and book a time so that you make it to the re-inspection.

A basic inspection on the lift costs 20 € for disc brakes where the handbrake works through the brake caliper, and a handbrake adjustment 42.50 € on average. Replacing both cables costs 170 € on average, and replacing the shoes of a drum-type handbrake on both sides from 212.50 €. Parts are charged separately.

If the mechanical parts are in good condition, an adjustment is usually enough. If the cables, the caliper mechanism or the inside of the drum are worn, rusted or seized, tightening alone will not fix the fault for long – the faulty part is then replaced.

The cause may be a seized cable, the handbrake mechanism in the caliper, a seized adjuster or a worn and rusted drum mechanism. Tightening the cable does not usually fix this – first we find out why one side works less well.

On many cars there is a disc brake at the rear, but inside the disc there is a separate small drum brake for the handbrake. Its condition cannot be seen from the outside, so the disc has to be removed. Dismantling and inspection costs from 85 €. If the repair is agreed straight away, the dismantling work already done is used for the repair.

In Finland, road salt, moisture and large temperature swings rust the cable from the inside as its protective sheath ages. The cable no longer moves or returns properly, and the brake may stay partly on. In winter, moisture can also freeze inside the cable. A seized cable is worth replacing – we usually replace both.

On many cars the handbrake mechanism is inside the rear brake caliper. If it seizes, adjustment does not help, and the caliper usually has to be replaced. Read more: brake caliper replacement and service.

Yes. The fault may be in the caliper’s electric motor, the caliper, the wiring, the connectors or the control unit. We start by reading the fault codes, and if needed the system is controlled with a diagnostic tool and a basic setting is done. The price is estimated according to the fault and the car.

On VW Group cars built from around 2020 (Volkswagen, Audi, Škoda, SEAT, CUPRA) the diagnostics are protected with SFD locking. It has to be unlocked, for example, to put the electric parking brake into service mode. SFD unlocking +30 €.

Send us the inspection report or its fault entry and the car’s registration number. The measured values often show whether it is an adjustment, a fault on one side or a larger repair. We can order the parts needed in advance.

We recommend quality parts. The cheapest cables and shoes do not last long in Finnish conditions. We calculate the price of parts based on the registration number.

The warranty covers the adjustment and repair we do and the parts we supply. If an old cable, caliper or adjuster breaks later and was not replaced during the work, it is a separate repair.

Labour for replacing the timing belt kit and drive belt costs from 255 € (from 3 hours). The exact price depends on the engine – you will find prices for the most common engines in the table above. Parts are charged separately – we calculate the price based on the registration number.

According to the replacement interval specified by the manufacturer. The interval is usually given both in kilometres and in years, and the belt is replaced when either is reached first. A belt also ages in a car that is driven little. We check the replacement interval by registration number.

If the water pump is in the timing end or driven by the timing belt, it is worth replacing at the same time. Most of the dismantling is done anyway, so the prices in the table include the water pump replacement for engines where it is in the timing end. The exception is VAG 1.0–1.5 TSI engines: on these the water pump is on the other side of the engine with its own belt, so replacing it is a separate job of about 3 hours more. We only replace it if it leaks or is otherwise necessary.

In many engines the valves hit the pistons, which can cause expensive engine damage. If the belt breaks, do not start the engine again. Before fitting a new belt, we check whether the engine has been damaged.

On some engines, such as Ford EcoBoost and PSA PureTech, the timing belt runs in engine oil. The wrong or too old oil can make the belt brittle, and pieces of it can end up in the oil pump strainer. On these engines the replacement is more laborious: the oil pump belt, oil and filter are replaced at the same time and the oil pump pickup strainer is cleaned. The work costs approx. 510 €.

Not always. A belt can look fine even when it is at the end of its service life. That is why it is replaced according to the interval and not only when a fault is visible.

It is worth fixing the leak at the same time, for example the front crankshaft seal. Oil and coolant shorten the life of the belt and pulleys.

We use quality timing belt kits from well-known manufacturers such as INA, SKF and Continental. The timing end is critical for the engine, so it is not worth saving on the cheapest kits.

We check it by registration number. A timing chain does not usually have a fixed replacement interval, but it can stretch. Read more: timing chain replacement.

Yes. We are responsible for the quality of the fitting work, but we cannot give a warranty on the quality or durability of parts you bring yourself.

On most cars the manufacturer has not specified a fixed replacement interval, unlike for a timing belt. In our experience, on CBZB, CAXA and N47 engines the chain is worth replacing at 200,000 km at the latest, preferably before. On other engines the decision is based on the design, service history, symptoms and diagnostics.

The chain, tensioner, guide rails and sprockets wear together. Replacing only the chain with worn parts would shorten the life of the new chain. Some engines also have several chains, for example for the oil pump – which is why the content of the repair always depends on the engine.

Yes. Chain kits from unknown brands can stretch quickly, and the problem comes back soon after the replacement – we do not recommend them. The best are complete quality kits, for example Febi or Iwis. The more affordable FAI has also proven durable in use.

A long life change interval can be as much as 30,000 km. Over such a long interval the oil has time to age and form deposits, which weakens the lubrication of the chain and tensioner – and that is exactly what wears the chain.

If you want the engine to serve you reliably for a long time, we recommend an oil change every 15,000–20,000 km. It is one of the best ways to protect the timing chain. Oil change

Usually about two working days. On V6, V8 and V12 engines, Land Rovers and some Mercedes-Benz models the work is more extensive, and the time is estimated separately.

We tell you what we found and the price, and any extra work is agreed with you before it is done.

Labour usually costs 42.50–85 € (0.5–1 hour). If the tensioner or an idler pulley is replaced at the same time, the price is from 85 €. A belt usually costs 15–30 €. We tell you the exact price based on the registration number.

The cause may be a worn or stretched belt, a weak tensioner, a worn idler pulley, the alternator freewheel pulley or moisture. That is why we check the whole belt drive before replacing parts.

The alternator stops charging, the air conditioning does not work and on many cars the steering becomes heavy. On some engines, pieces of the belt can end up in the timing end area and cause further damage. If the belt breaks, we first find the cause before fitting a new one.

If the tensioner is worn, its spring has weakened or the pulley is noisy, yes. A weak tensioner wears out a new belt quickly.

Yes. The drive belt is removed anyway during a timing belt replacement, and replacing it is included in our timing belt replacement prices.

According to the manufacturer’s service schedule or when the belt shows wear. In Finland frost and moisture harden the rubber, so the condition of the belt is worth checking during servicing.

We use quality belts and tensioners from well-known manufacturers such as Continental, Gates and INA.

Yes. We are responsible for the quality of the fitting work, but we cannot give a warranty on the quality or durability of parts you bring yourself.

Approx. 500 € on average. On some cars the job is bigger, and the price is calculated by the hour at 85 €/h according to the scope of the work. The clutch kit and any flywheel are charged separately. Exact price by registration number.

The job is often finished in a day, but we recommend allowing two days for the car. During dismantling other parts may be found that need replacing and have to be ordered.

When the gearbox is removed, parts such as the rear crankshaft seal (on the gearbox side), the gearbox seals and the guide sleeve also become visible. If they are leaking or worn, it is worth replacing them at the same time – we tell you before continuing.

Usually not, and it is not included in the price of the clutch replacement. Rarely it is needed: if the subframe was removed and the steering wheel is off-centre after refitting, or if control arms were removed whose mounting requires adjustment after fitting. We always tell you about this in advance. A four-wheel alignment costs 79 €.

Not always. Many cars have a dual-mass flywheel (DMF), which is a wear part. We assess its condition when the gearbox has been removed. If it has play, noise or damage, replacing it at the same time saves doing the same work a second time.

Not for long. Slipping heats up the clutch and can damage the flywheel. If the car does not transmit power, there is a burning smell from the clutch or pulling away is difficult, avoid driving before an inspection.

Quality clutch kits and flywheels from well-known manufacturers, for example LuK, Sachs and Valeo.

Yes, if they fit the car.

The average price is 127.50 € – 1.5 hours of work on average. Parts and any four-wheel alignment are charged separately. If the shaft is seized, the price is based on the actual amount of work.

A worn outer joint usually clicks or crunches when driving with the wheels turned, especially under load. Wear in the inner joint often shows as vibration when accelerating or when the load changes. The symptoms alone do not always show which side is faulty, so we check before the repair.

It can, but we do not usually recommend it. Soft rubber boots fitted without removing the joint can tear again within a year. A more durable thermoplastic boot requires removing the joint, so it is often worth replacing the joint at the same time.

On older cars the shaft may have rusted into the hub or bearing. For example, on some older BMW models the rear driveshaft is so tight that the hub or knuckle has to be removed and the shaft pressed out.

We recommend replacing the gearbox or differential seal on the side where the shaft is removed. Replacing the seal adds a small labour charge, and the seal itself is inexpensive. This also prevents a later leak.

Usually not. It may be needed if a ball joint, adjustable arms or other parts affecting the wheel angles were removed during the work. We tell you in advance if it is needed.

The price depends on the fault. Diagnostics cost 85 €/h and fault code reading 20 €. You will find prices for the most common jobs on the service pages – for example, timing belt replacement from 255 € and drive belt replacement 42.50–85 €. No extra work is done without your approval.

If the light is on steadily and the car drives normally, a short drive to the workshop is usually fine. If the light is flashing, the engine is jerking or power drops noticeably, do not keep driving – a flashing light often means a misfire, which can damage the catalytic converter.

Turn the heater to full and the cabin fan to maximum speed and watch the air from the vents: as long as it is warm, the coolant is circulating and the engine is cooling. If the air turns cold or the temperature does not drop, stop the car and switch off the engine. You will find more detailed instructions on the cooling system repair page.

The noise may come from the timing chain, the drive belt tensioner or a pulley, the valve train, an exhaust manifold leak or the bearings, for example. We listen to the noise, test-drive the car and tell you the cause before the repair.

Not necessarily. Oil can be lost through a leak or burnt in the engine, for example because of the crankcase ventilation, the turbocharger or worn parts. We first find out whether the oil is leaking out or being burnt.

Yes, we do the mechanical part ourselves: we dismantle the engine, replace the worn parts and reassemble it. We do not have our own machining equipment, so cylinder head skimming, cylinder sleeving and other machining work is done by a specialised machine shop – we take the dismantled parts there ourselves. If you prefer, you can also send the block, head and other parts for reconditioning yourself: we hand them over to you after dismantling and reassemble the engine when the parts come back. After diagnostics we assess whether the repair makes sense.

Send the fault codes, the previous diagnosis, the other workshop’s statement or the inspection report and the registration number. With them we can often estimate the scope and price of the work in advance.

We use quality parts from well-known manufacturers such as INA, SKF, Continental, Elring and Victor Reinz. We calculate the price of parts based on the registration number.

The repair starts with locating the leak: a basic inspection on the lift 20 € or diagnostics 85 €/h, and an engine wash of approx. 85 € if needed. The repair itself is 85 €/h – for example a valve cover gasket 85–170 € and an oil filter housing gasket from 170 €. Gaskets are inexpensive, usually 10–50 €. We tell you the exact price once the leak point is clear.

Old oil covers the engine so that a fresh leak point cannot be told apart. We wash the engine (approx. 85 €), you drive for a while, and we inspect again – then the leak shows clearly.

The most common points are the valve cover gasket, the oil filter housing gasket, the front and rear crankshaft seals, the oil pan, sensors and the oil pipes and hoses.

A little old moisture is not usually urgent. If the oil level drops noticeably, oil drips on the ground or gets onto the hot exhaust manifold, the repair should not be postponed: too little oil can wreck the engine, and oil on a hot surface causes smell, smoke and at worst a fire risk.

The leak is worth fixing soon, because oil makes the timing belt brittle and shortens its life. If the leaking front crankshaft seal is behind the timing end, replacing it requires removing the timing belt or timing chain – the work is practically the same, so the belt or chain is worth renewing at the same time.

It sits between the engine and the gearbox, so the gearbox has to be removed – the work is the same as for a clutch replacement. That is why the seal is usually replaced together with the clutch.

They can temporarily slow down a small leak by softening the seals, but they do not fix a broken or hardened seal. A lasting repair means replacing the seal.

Rubber and cork seals harden with time and temperature changes. In Finland, the large temperature differences between cold starts and a hot engine strain the seals. Infrequent oil changes and a clogged crankcase ventilation also increase leaks.

We use quality seals from well-known manufacturers such as Victor Reinz, Elring and Corteco.

Send us the entry from the inspection report and the car’s registration number. We locate the leak and tell you the price of the repair before the work.

First the cause of the fault is found: a basic inspection on the lift 20 €, a pressure test 42.50–85 € or diagnostics 85 €/h. The repair itself is 85 €/h – for example a coolant change approx. 85 €, a thermostat replacement from 42.50 € (approx. 170 € on average), a water pump replacement on its own approx. 170 € and a radiator replacement from 170 €. Parts are charged separately.

The cooling system is pressurised to the same pressure as when driving. Then even small leaks from the hoses, connections, radiator or water pump become visible, even if nothing leaks from a cold engine.

The leak may be small and evaporate from the hot engine, or the coolant may be leaking inside, for example from the heater core. Sometimes the cause is the cylinder head gasket. A pressure test and diagnostics show what is going on.

If the engine is warm but the heater blows cold air, we recommend coming to the workshop as soon as possible. In most cases it means the coolant is not circulating properly in the system, which can lead to engine overheating and an expensive repair.

Possible causes:

• too little coolant – the heater core is often the first to run dry
• an air lock in the system
• a faulty water pump that does not circulate the coolant
• a thermostat stuck open – the engine does not reach operating temperature
• a clogged heater core
• a faulty heater valve, air flap or its actuator

If coolant is being lost and air is getting into the system, the cause may also be the cylinder head gasket. Watch the temperature gauge until the cause is clear: if the reading rises above normal or the warning light comes on, stop and switch off the engine. At the workshop we first check the coolant level and do a pressure test, then look for the cause.

Not without an inspection. The same symptoms can have many other causes, so guessing at parts often costs more than diagnostics.

If the water pump is driven by the timing belt, it is worth replacing at the same time, because the dismantling has already been done. On many cars the pump is also replaced on its own – then the work usually takes about 2 hours (approx. 170 €). Read more: timing belt replacement.

According to the car manufacturer’s instructions. Old coolant loses its corrosion protection, and in Finnish frosts it is important that the coolant’s freeze protection is sufficient.

Only in an emergency. Water dilutes the coolant, weakening its freeze protection and corrosion protection. Different coolant types should not be mixed either – we check and correct the mixture.

We use quality parts from well-known manufacturers. The cheapest hoses and thermostats do not last long with the large temperature swings in Finland.

Small jobs are inexpensive: securing a heat shield 10–42.50 €, welding a mounting or replacing a clamp approx. 42.50 €. A silencer replacement costs approx. 85 €, a flex pipe replacement from 170 € and a catalytic converter replacement from 127.50 €. Parts are charged separately.

Most often the cause is a loose heat shield, a broken rubber hanger or an exhaust pipe hitting the body or the chassis. These are usually repaired quickly.

It can be. Exhaust gases contain carbon monoxide, so a leak should be checked soon. The cause is often a leaking joint, a flex pipe or a rusted pipe.

First we look at the inspection results: which values did not pass – CO, HC, lambda or diesel smoke opacity. Then we check the exhaust system for leaks and repair them. Poor emissions can also be caused by how the engine runs: the lambda sensor, the ignition, an air leak or the catalytic converter.

We deliberately do not use our own exhaust gas analyser, because the result that counts comes from the inspection station measurement anyway. That is why emissions are checked after the repair at the re-inspection. Our job is to find and fix the cause.

Not necessarily. The cause of the code may be the lambda sensor, a misfire, an intake leak or an exhaust leak. We find the cause before replacing an expensive catalytic converter – a new one often costs 300–400 €.

A small hole or a bracket that has come loose can be welded. If the metal has rusted extensively, welding will not last long, and replacing the part is the more durable and often cheaper solution.

We fit a ready-made exhaust system designed for the car model in question, if fitting it is technically possible. We do not build systems from scratch. Approvals, roadworthiness and any modification inspection are the customer’s responsibility.

No. We do not remove particulate filters, and we do not disable EGR or other emission systems. We repair faulty systems back to working order.

Yes. We are responsible for the quality of the fitting work, but we cannot give a warranty on the quality or durability of parts you bring yourself.

An air-conditioning service costs 90 €. For an R134a system the price includes up to 300 g of refrigerant (additional refrigerant 10 € / 100 g), for an R1234yf system up to 100 g (additional refrigerant 20 € / 100 g). The price also includes compressor oil, UV dye and up to 30 minutes of fault finding.

Newer cars usually use R1234yf refrigerant and older ones R134a. The information can often be found on a sticker under the bonnet, and we also check it by registration number.

Refrigerant is gradually lost from the system even without a fault. When the cooling weakens or several years have passed since the last service, a service is due.

The air conditioning dries the air inside the car, so the windows do not mist up. Regular use also keeps the compressor and seals lubricated. In the Finnish winter it is especially useful.

Often yes, if the refrigerant level is only slightly low. If the system is almost empty or refrigerant is lost quickly after a service, the cause is probably a leak. In that case the leak is found and repaired (85 €/h).

Common leak points are the condenser, the pipe connections and seals, and the compressor. A small or slow leak is not always found on the first visit – the UV dye added during the service helps to find it later.

We first find out why the compressor failed. If it has broken mechanically and metal particles have got into the system, a new compressor alone is not enough – the system has to be cleaned and the drier replaced.

The drier absorbs moisture from the system, and it is worth replacing when the system is opened for a repair. On many cars the drier is in the condenser – if the condenser has already rusted, it is worth replacing it as a whole with the drier.

The smell is often caused by a dirty cabin air filter or moisture and bacteria that have built up on the evaporator. Replacing the cabin air filter during the service often helps.

Yes. Primpex Autohuolto is registered in the Tukes register, and air-conditioning work is done by trained people who are authorised to handle vehicle refrigerants.

We always tighten the bolts and nuts with a torque wrench to the torque specified by the car manufacturer. That is why, after a normal seasonal change – when the rims and fasteners have already been in use – separate re-tightening is not usually needed.

If new rims, bolts or nuts were fitted to the car, we recommend re-tightening after about 50–100 km of driving. You can have it done by us or do it yourself with a torque wrench.

We always check and adjust the tyre pressures during a tyre change – this is included in the price.

A TPMS reset is not included in a normal tyre change. If the reset is easy on the car, for example with a button or from a menu, the mechanic usually does it free of charge when possible. Programming or learning the sensors with a diagnostic tool is separate work.

No. A normal seasonal change does not include wheel balancing. If you feel vibration while driving, the steering wheel shakes or a balancing problem is suspected, balancing can be done as separate work. Wheel balancing →

If the tyres need to be removed from the rims and others fitted in their place, that is a separate service. Tyre fitting on rims →

A normal tyre change assumes the wheels, rims and fasteners are in normal condition. Extra work may be needed, for example, if a wheel has rusted firmly to the hub, the threads of the bolts or nuts are damaged, unusual locking nuts are used or something else prevents a normal seasonal change. Any extra work is agreed separately.

Only the wheels. We do not store hubcaps, spare bolts, nuts, centring rings or other separate parts.

Yes. You can leave your old tyres with us for recycling after the change. The recycling fee is included in the price of the tyre work, so recycling is not charged separately.

We replace the rubber valve if the mechanic sees during the tyre work that it is faulty – we do not replace intact valves automatically. You can also order the replacement in advance, in which case the surface under the valve is checked and cleaned. In both cases the replacement costs 5 € / wheel or 10 € / set.

Bring the wheel in for inspection: we first find the exact location and cause of the leak and show it to you. We fix an error in our work free of charge under warranty.

If the cause is a hidden rim fault under a valve that was not replaced, it is a rim repair. We do the repeat work at 50% of the price, and the price is agreed before the repair.

During a normal tyre change on rims we do not separately check the TPMS sensors for leaks – we fit the new tyres as usual.

If a wheel is leaking and that is why you come in, we also check the sensor for leaks. We have repair kits in stock for different sensors; sensor repairs are agreed and priced separately.

If you order the full service, the finished wheels are fitted on the car and the wheel bolts or nuts are tightened to the correct torque: 79 € / 4 wheels, 19″ and larger / SUV / 4×4 / more demanding wheels 99 € / 4 wheels.

If your summer and winter tyres are already on their own rims, you only need a seasonal change. Tyre change and tyre storage →

Yes. New tyres are always balanced when they are fitted on the rims. Tyre fitting on rims →

No. A normal seasonal change does not include balancing. Tyre change and tyre storage →

The prices of 40 € and 60 € apply to passenger cars and rims up to 18″. If the rims are 19″ or larger, the wheels belong to a commercial vehicle or SUV, or the rims are chrome or tuned, the price may differ depending on how demanding the work is.