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Cooling system repair in Helsinki

We find and repair coolant leaks and the causes of overheating and poor heating on passenger cars and small vans. First we find the real cause of the fault – only then do we replace parts.

Basic inspection on the lift 20 €We check the hoses, connections, radiator and water pump. We tell you the price of the repair before the work.
  • Basic inspection 20 €
  • Pressure test 42.50–85 €
  • Repair 85 €/h
  • No extra work without your approval
Cooling system repair and pressure test on a dismantled engine
85 €/h

Cooling system repair charged by the hour. The repair always starts with finding the cause of the fault. The price depends on the fault and the car. Parts are charged separately.

1. First, the cause of the fault

Basic inspection on the liftwhen the leak point is visible during the inspection
20 €
Pressure testthe system is pressurised – finds small and hidden leaks
42.50–85 €
Diagnosticsoverheating, poor heating or a fan fault
85 €/h

2. The most common repairs – labour price

Coolant changeincl. coolant and bleeding · the price may be higher if the car needs a special coolant or bleeding is done with a diagnostic tool
approx. 85 €
Thermostat replacementaverage price approx. 170 € · depends a lot on the car – on older cars the replacement is often quick
from 42.50 €
Radiator replacementfrom 2 hours · depends on the car – if the front of the car has to be dismantled, the work can take about 4 hours
from 170 €
Expansion tank replacementusually about an hour, including bleeding
from 85 €
Water pump replacementreplaced on its own it usually takes about 2 hours · if the pump is driven by the timing belt, it is replaced together with a timing belt replacement
approx. 170 €
Hoses and other leakshoses, connections, heater core
after diagnostics

The prices are labour prices from our previous jobs. Parts and coolant (except for a coolant change) are charged separately. No extra work is done without your approval.

Prices include VAT at 25.5%.

When should the cooling system be checked?

A check makes sense if:

  • the engine overheats or the temperature gauge rises higher than normal
  • you need to top up the coolant repeatedly
  • there are traces of coolant under the car
  • the heater blows cold air even though the engine is warm
  • the engine warms up very slowly
  • there is a sweet smell of coolant in the engine bay

Cause first

No guessing at parts

It is not always the thermostatOverheating can also be caused by the fan, its control, a clogged radiator, the water pump or air in the system.
A pressure test finds small leaksWhen a leak cannot be seen, we pressurise the system – then even a small leak shows up.

The engine is overheating – what to do

If the temperature gauge rises above normal or the warning light comes on, act quickly. How much time you have depends on the stage of overheating: if the needle has only risen slightly above the operating mark (about 90 °C), there is time; if it is already at maximum and the red warning light is on, you have seconds, not minutes.

01

Heater on full

Turn the heater to full and the cabin fan to maximum speed. The heater core then works as an additional radiator and takes some of the heat from the engine – this helps, for example, when the radiator fan is not working.

02

Watch the air from the vents

As long as the air is warm, the coolant is circulating and the engine is cooling. If the air turns cold, circulation has stopped – because of low coolant, a faulty water pump or boiling coolant. Stop the car straight away and switch off the engine.

03

The temperature drops

If the temperature starts to drop straight away and stays normal, it may be possible to drive to the workshop. Watch the temperature gauge the whole way.

04

Not dropping – stop

If the temperature does not start to drop straight away, the warning light is on, steam is coming from under the bonnet or the coolant has leaked out, stop the car in a safe place and switch off the engine. Overheating can damage the cylinder head gasket and, at worst, the whole engine.

If the car has no temperature gauge, you cannot see the real engine temperature. Turn the heater to full in that case too, but do not keep driving – stop the car and switch off the engine. If the car has to be moved a short distance, turn the heater to full as well – it lowers the temperature slightly and reduces the risk of damaging the gasket. Do not open the cooling system cap when it is hot. If in doubt, call for a tow.

These are general guidelines. The driver decides whether to continue driving depending on the situation.

Frequently asked questions

How much does cooling system repair cost?

First the cause of the fault is found: a basic inspection on the lift 20 €, a pressure test 42.50–85 € or diagnostics 85 €/h. The repair itself is 85 €/h – for example a coolant change approx. 85 €, a thermostat replacement from 42.50 € (approx. 170 € on average), a water pump replacement on its own approx. 170 € and a radiator replacement from 170 €. Parts are charged separately.

What is a pressure test?

The cooling system is pressurised to the same pressure as when driving. Then even small leaks from the hoses, connections, radiator or water pump become visible, even if nothing leaks from a cold engine.

The coolant level drops but there is no visible leak – what is going on?

The leak may be small and evaporate from the hot engine, or the coolant may be leaking inside, for example from the heater core. Sometimes the cause is the cylinder head gasket. A pressure test and diagnostics show what is going on.

The heater blows cold air – why?

If the engine is warm but the heater blows cold air, we recommend coming to the workshop as soon as possible. In most cases it means the coolant is not circulating properly in the system, which can lead to engine overheating and an expensive repair.

Possible causes:

  • too little coolant – the heater core is often the first to run dry
  • an air lock in the system
  • a faulty water pump that does not circulate the coolant
  • a thermostat stuck open – the engine does not reach operating temperature
  • a clogged heater core
  • a faulty heater valve, air flap or its actuator

If coolant is being lost and air is getting into the system, the cause may also be the cylinder head gasket. Watch the temperature gauge until the cause is clear: if the reading rises above normal or the warning light comes on, stop and switch off the engine. At the workshop we first check the coolant level and do a pressure test, then look for the cause.

Is it worth replacing the thermostat just in case?

Not without an inspection. The same symptoms can have many other causes, so guessing at parts often costs more than diagnostics.

Should the water pump be replaced with the timing belt?

If the water pump is driven by the timing belt, it is worth replacing at the same time, because the dismantling has already been done. On many cars the pump is also replaced on its own – then the work usually takes about 2 hours (approx. 170 €). Read more: timing belt replacement.

How often is the coolant changed?

According to the car manufacturer’s instructions. Old coolant loses its corrosion protection, and in Finnish frosts it is important that the coolant’s freeze protection is sufficient.

Can I add water to the coolant?

Only in an emergency. Water dilutes the coolant, weakening its freeze protection and corrosion protection. Different coolant types should not be mixed either – we check and correct the mixture.

Which parts do you use?

We use quality parts from well-known manufacturers. The cheapest hoses and thermostats do not last long with the large temperature swings in Finland.

More answers on the FAQ page

Request a quote for cooling system repair

Send us:

  • the car’s registration number
  • the symptoms: a leak, overheating or cold heating
  • how quickly the coolant level drops

We tell you the exact price once the cause of the fault is clear.

Call 050 599 0357 (Mon–Fri 9–17)
or message us on WhatsApp or email asiakaspalvelu@primpex.fi